A project to make and perform music in the Arctic Circle to virtually empty spaces.
Curated by Dans for Voksnes, Oslo, Norway.

Thirteen of us travel North to the highest ring of latitude humans measure above the Equator : Svalbard in the Arctic circle. Four hours flying north from Oslo with a pause in Tromsø to stand gasping on the runway, transfixed by the light and the white and the fascinating freezing nostril hair sensation. Within two hours of landing we have learnt to wear two woolen layers of thermals next to the skin, a third one netted, two thicker layers, always wool or polartec, a windproof jacket and then the quilted freeze windproof snow scooter suit. Thank you for that. I have had no idea of cold until now.

Alan has just arrived from Argentina. He is excited and talks non stop as he climbs on the back of the skidoo (whatever happened to that band?) I shall drive. It is sunny. We are eight bikes, six of them towing trailers carrying the supplies and instruments and cameras and sleeping bags.

Vadim, our Russian guide, appears on vastly superior machine with breathing apparatus in visor on helmet rather than the double layered balaclaver + scarf + goggles system we visitors port. He directs final checks and two hours behind schedule we set off. Well, start to, except Kaffe calmly executes smart move tipping Alan off at the first 45 degree sideways slope, meaning she has luxury of being solo bike driver all week.

We sleep as bears cocooned in thick green army bags. So hot that the three layers of thermals have come off. Five of us pressed into a room 3 beds wide, the more senior men, aka professional snorers variously vibrating the thick walls next door. I wake in the night to pee. Already bearing my arse in -24? seems normal and snow as paper merely refreshing.



